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Choosing a Cross Stitch or Needlework Fabric

           This can be a daunting task with the plethora of choices out there.  There are several different categories of cross stitch fabric:  Aida, Linen, Even Weave (Plain Weave), Hardanger,  Canvas, specialty fabrics, like Afghan and Hand Dyed fabrics and more.   Each of the different kinds of fabric have a unique texture, feel and sheen.  Some, like Linen are very stiff and some, like Aida Country French are very, very soft.  They even smell different depending on what kind of material they are made out of and how they were dyed. 

There are also many different colors in all of these groups to choose from.  White, off white, ecru, ivory, mushroom, cream and variations of white being the most used and widely available.  When choosing a color you want to find something that compliments your design colors, but allows the design to show up well.  White is generally a safe bet, but for a more unique look, choose a beautiful color.  There are also Hand Dyed fabrics that come in variegated colors that are very unique as well. Opalescent hand dyed fabrics add sparkle to your design.  They are prefect for a night sky effect.  Hand dyed fabrics make your project come alive.  Natural color fabrics like Dirty Aida, Mushroom, Natural Light, Brown Undyed, Chestnut, etc. make a design look old fashioned or antiqued. 

          One of the most popular and easy to use fabrics for cross stitch is Aida fabric.  It’s 100% cotton.  Aida was invented in 1890 especially for cross stitch.  It is sometimes called "The Cross Stitch Fabric".    14 count is the most widely used in the group with the most color choices, followed by 16 and then 11 count fabric.  Aida fabric consists of small squares that make it easy to count and even to stitch.  Aida is in fact, an even weave fabric.  It comes in several different counts as large as Herta (6 count) and fine as 20 count.  Herta is often used for teaching children or beginners to cross stitch because it is easy to see.  18 and 20 count fabrics are for more experienced cross stitchers that are looking for a finer or more detailed look  to their piece.  Aida Country French is a  cotton Aida even weave that has a soft, luxurious texture.  It is great for baby quilts, clothing or washable items.  It drapes nicely and comes in a variety of neutral colors.

 Example Aida 14 Count
Aida 14 Count Sample

          Hardanger is 100% cotton with 22 counts.  Hardanger is a method of embroidery and Hardanger fabric was designed specifically for it.  Hardanger embroidery used to be worked on linen years ago.  It originated in the Hardanger region of Norway 100's of years ago.  Eventually, Norwegian immigrants brought it to the Untied States   Hardanger fabric is usually imported from European cities.  It is generally used for embroidery, but can be used by cross stitchers looking for delicate detail.   It is often used by stitchers for projects like ornaments and doilies.  There are pattern designs just for Hardanger. 

Example Hardanger 22 Count
Hardanger 22 Count Sample

          Linens have the appearance of a basket weave.  Linen offers a more “old fashioned” look to a piece.  The fabric has a very "crisp" feel.  They are more difficult to use then Aidas because it requires more skill to control the tension of the floss for even stitches.  Linens are great for detailed designs and experienced stitchers.  Linens are generally stitched over two.  They come in several different counts with 32 and 28 counts being the most prevalent.  When stitched over two, 32 count becomes a 16 count, and 28 count becomes a 14 count.   Linen and Linen Blends come in many, many different colors.  There are several types of linen to choose from like Belfast, Cashel, Betsy Ross, Chester, Cork, Country French, Dublin, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Graziano, Hand Dyed, Hardanger, Pearl, Rosenstand, Silk, and Weaver.

Example Hardanger 22 Count
Linen 32 Count Sample

          Even Weaves (Plain Weaves) are most often cotton fabric.  The warp and weft thread count is the same.  These fabrics come in many colors. There are several different types like Davosa, Janina, Lugana, Jazlyn (52% Cotton and 48% Rayon), Linda, Annabelle,  Jubilee, Aida and JobelanJobelan is one of the most popular because of it's elegant, soft, smooth sheen and large variety of colors, including hand dyed fabrics.  Jobelan also drapes nicely. Davos is made of 100% cotton twist yarn and it is great for all types of stitching.  It's a relatively thick fabric and is ideal for clothing, pillows and other items and gives a soft supple look.  It comes in a small range of neutral colors.  Lugana is also a heavy fabric that is very versatile and similar to a Jobelan.  Lugana comes in many colors and it is a blend of 52% cotton and 48% Viscose.. 

Example Hardanger 22 Count
Jobelan 28 Count Sample

         Hand Dyed Fabrics have a very unique look.  They come in Linens, Even Weaves, Aida and other traditional fabrics.  They are excellent for a interesting or unusual background.    Hand dyed opalescent fabrics are an incredible touch to any project..  Opalescent fabrics have a shinny thread weaved through out the fabric to give it sparkle.  They are excellent for a night time back ground with shimmering  stars.  Black or dark blue based  opalescent fabric works best.

Example Hand Dyed Fabric
Hand Dyed - Linen Babbling Brook

       Perforated Paper was used by those that could not afford Linen in the Victorian era.   During the Victorian era, most perforated paper projects consisted of bookmarks or bible verses made into samplers that were hung on the wall.   It is still used today for the same purposes.   It comes in a  variety of solid and marbled colors and is generally 14 count. Perforated paper is often used to make ornaments and bookmarks.

Example Perforated Paper
Perforated Paper -Hand Painted 14 Count

          Afghan fabrics.  Afghan fabric is often referred to as patterned fabric. There are several different types of afghan fabric to choose from.    Abby Cloth, Alba,  Almanac,  Andrea,  Alpine,   Gloria,  Hearthside and many, many more.  They come in different counts and different styles.  Some have a large center for a center theme to the afghan.  Others are in patterns of squares.    There are many cross stitch patterns to choose from that are designed for afghans.

Gloria, 14 count Afghan fabric

         Waste Canvas is used to stitch your design on fabrics that are not cross stitch friendly, like denim or T-shit cotton fabric, and table cloths and napkins.  Waste canvas comes in many different counts from 6.5 to 20 count.  Waste canvas is marked with a grid, usually in blue that breaks the canvas down into 10 count squares (just like a pattern)  that makes it easy to count and to position your design in the center.  Some people choose to use some fabric on the inside of the material they are stitching on to give added support to their stitches.  This is called interfacing.  Using a 6 stranded floss, you will generally stitch with two strands of floss.  However, this is something that is left up to you to decide.  If you are concerned that the floss colors will run, than you can soak each color of floss in water to remove any excess dye before stitching.   To begin your design, be sure to center the waste canvas on your shirt, blue jeans, etc.  You can baste or pin your waste canvas and interfacing to your project.    Be sure to secure your floss firmly so it doesn't come undone when you wash your garment.  Once you have stitched your design to your garment and you are finished, wet your waste canvas and gently pull it out from under your design so that all that is left is the design you have stitched on your garment.  It is best to wash your garment turned inside out.  Make sure the edges of your interfacing are trimmed close to the design so as not to be caught during the washing process and pulled off. 

Waste canvas

 

 

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